5 am on the internet, 6 donuts and coffee and it's farewell to the showy and bustling Jackson, Wyoming at 7:30 am. It's pretty cool out, prob only the high 30's to start, with more low clouds. Being in the rain shadow of the Tetons, my 26 mile route up to Moran Junction is dry(ish). Along the way, I stopped off at the turnoff to the town of Kelly for a coincidental photo. My book-of-choice for this leg of the trip is "Merle's Door" by Ted Kerasote. It's the story of Merle, an adopted and super savvy and intelligent Golden Retriever mix, who is taken in by the author as a pup and is an incredible account of their life together. I was tempted to take the trip into Kelly, which is where most of the book takes place, to try to find Ted, a professional writer of nature and adventure travel.
Knowing I had a big climb today, the tire gods decided to give me a flat one, and with no phone service to call AAA, I did the repair just east of Moran Junction, and just as the mighty Tetons showed themselves (albeit briefly). In case anyone is wondering where I am right now, just look at about any postcard ever printed of the Teton Range; they're that vivid.
Now it's up. And up and more up. It's a 3400' climb up to Togwotee Pass from here. Rain begins as I ascend into the clouds. The temperature is falling. It starts to snow. In 15 miles I reach Togwotee Mtn. Lodge (where I stayed 5 years ago while hiking along the Continental Divide). Now it is snowing heavily, but not sticking (that's good!) The new raingear jacket is keeping my core warm, tho the new pants are leaking (not good!). Grab a couple bananas and a yogurt at the lodge convenience store and hear that Yellowstone NP's south entrance has been closed today due to snow accumulation. It's 9 more miles to the pass. I feel a dull tension in the back of my head--elevation!, as I pass 9000'. In 4 more miles, I hit road construction, and in the ensuing 3 miles of mud and rain, get covered with muck. Not good for the chain and gearing at all. Now we are moving so slowly, the dog is whining and I'm really concerned about hypothermia with the temperature not much above freezing...
Last we saw our intrepid adventurers, they were mired in mud, rain and snow, freezing and tired, climbing endlessly. Well Rocky and Bullwinkle, what now...
More halting road construction. This time, I need to stand for 20 minutes waiting for the pilot car, for a ride thru only 1 mile of bulldozers, front loaders and mess. Road workers are in fur-lined parkas and stomping their feet to keep warm. Me, I'm in 3 layers of sweat and rain soaked nylon, trying to politely tell them that I am COLD!
Finally, I'm back on the bike and cranking the final switchbacks to >> The Continental Divide! At 9658 feet!! Yahoo!!! [I'm not one of these outwardly demonstrative athletes who does a jive dance in the endzone, but you should have heard the woop I let out when I topped out!!!! Brought a tear to my eye and choked me up with emotion.] Time for a couple quick photos before the inevitable down, this time for 10 miles, with snow, then freezing rain in my face. I can't feel my fingers or toes, the road is all water and grit, but I barely touched the brakes til I found the Lava Mountain Lodge and the sun burst out. (Whitney, it was your guardian angel again!) Got some funny looks from the proprietors as a dry dog popped out of the mud encased trailer (kharmic turn of events from the world of sled dogs), but the very cold and wet musher got the cocoa and soup while the dog watched.
Descending back into sagey butte country, it's still 2 more hours before I get to the Super8 in Dubois, but what a welcome sight, after 83 hard miles. As I check in, I meet Brian Kliment, the Phantom rider, (see Dave Manley and the Phantom, May 28). Brian is doing a 10,000+ mile perimeter ride of the USA, having started in San Francisco a month ago. (PS: it was not his mesh bag I found near Council, ID). Check out his ride (www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/fruitloop)
All's well that ends well and as I melt into bed after a fine dinner, I am thankfull for having made it.
Today was not a day for sissys.
Knowing I had a big climb today, the tire gods decided to give me a flat one, and with no phone service to call AAA, I did the repair just east of Moran Junction, and just as the mighty Tetons showed themselves (albeit briefly). In case anyone is wondering where I am right now, just look at about any postcard ever printed of the Teton Range; they're that vivid.
Now it's up. And up and more up. It's a 3400' climb up to Togwotee Pass from here. Rain begins as I ascend into the clouds. The temperature is falling. It starts to snow. In 15 miles I reach Togwotee Mtn. Lodge (where I stayed 5 years ago while hiking along the Continental Divide). Now it is snowing heavily, but not sticking (that's good!) The new raingear jacket is keeping my core warm, tho the new pants are leaking (not good!). Grab a couple bananas and a yogurt at the lodge convenience store and hear that Yellowstone NP's south entrance has been closed today due to snow accumulation. It's 9 more miles to the pass. I feel a dull tension in the back of my head--elevation!, as I pass 9000'. In 4 more miles, I hit road construction, and in the ensuing 3 miles of mud and rain, get covered with muck. Not good for the chain and gearing at all. Now we are moving so slowly, the dog is whining and I'm really concerned about hypothermia with the temperature not much above freezing...
Last we saw our intrepid adventurers, they were mired in mud, rain and snow, freezing and tired, climbing endlessly. Well Rocky and Bullwinkle, what now...
More halting road construction. This time, I need to stand for 20 minutes waiting for the pilot car, for a ride thru only 1 mile of bulldozers, front loaders and mess. Road workers are in fur-lined parkas and stomping their feet to keep warm. Me, I'm in 3 layers of sweat and rain soaked nylon, trying to politely tell them that I am COLD!
Finally, I'm back on the bike and cranking the final switchbacks to >> The Continental Divide! At 9658 feet!! Yahoo!!! [I'm not one of these outwardly demonstrative athletes who does a jive dance in the endzone, but you should have heard the woop I let out when I topped out!!!! Brought a tear to my eye and choked me up with emotion.] Time for a couple quick photos before the inevitable down, this time for 10 miles, with snow, then freezing rain in my face. I can't feel my fingers or toes, the road is all water and grit, but I barely touched the brakes til I found the Lava Mountain Lodge and the sun burst out. (Whitney, it was your guardian angel again!) Got some funny looks from the proprietors as a dry dog popped out of the mud encased trailer (kharmic turn of events from the world of sled dogs), but the very cold and wet musher got the cocoa and soup while the dog watched.
Descending back into sagey butte country, it's still 2 more hours before I get to the Super8 in Dubois, but what a welcome sight, after 83 hard miles. As I check in, I meet Brian Kliment, the Phantom rider, (see Dave Manley and the Phantom, May 28). Brian is doing a 10,000+ mile perimeter ride of the USA, having started in San Francisco a month ago. (PS: it was not his mesh bag I found near Council, ID). Check out his ride (www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/fruitloop)
All's well that ends well and as I melt into bed after a fine dinner, I am thankfull for having made it.
Today was not a day for sissys.
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